Sardinia Enoteca: This Week's Dining Review

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In this week's Dining column in the Nashville Scene, restaurant critic Carrington Fox checks out Sardinia Enoteca, the sister restaurant to Sardinia in Miami Beach, which opened a few months ago on 25th Avenue North, across from Centennial Park.

As Fox notes, most longtime Nashvillians will identify the spot primarily as happening to be next door to venerable steak-and-sushi spot Kobe Steaks:

While the Mediterranean- and Japanese-inspired restaurants share no association other than geography, their juxtaposition succinctly illustrates Nashville's culinary expansion over a generation. Consider this: In the course of a meal at Sardinia, we consumed wild boar, rabbit, quail, sweetbreads, branzino, anchovies and two kinds of octopus. What's more, my children were dining with us, and they'd sampled most of those proteins before, here and there across Nashville's ever-expanding dining landscape.

Sardinia covers some pretty sophisticated culinary territory, but Fox found it to be a pretty welcoming place. And she especially liked something gorgeously cheesy:

Most impressive was the recitation of mozzarella offerings, which include firm and smoky affumicata, creamy stracciatella, and burrata — a beggar's purse of stretchy cheese bulging with liquid buttery curds. Each order of mozzarella comes with two sides, from a list that includes string beans, prosciutto, broccoli rabe, tomatoes, roasted peppers and baby zucchini with mint. The pairing of burrata with anchovies was particularly successful, as the shiny briny fingerlings enlivened the mild cool cream.

What say you, Bitesters? Anybody been to Sardinia Enoteca? Enjoyed any burrata, branzino or octopus?

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