by Steve Haruch
On two visits, we found a lot to like about Steve's. In terms of sheer value for money, it would be hard to beat the $14.75 appetizer sampler, which overflowed with chicken wings, ribs, potato skins (with bacon, scallions and cheddar) and a monumental block of deep-fried onion rings, which, we imagine, would be what resulted if a hay baler could harvest a field of bloomin' onions.
Even among such predictable bar snacks as wings, skins and chips and salsa, there were unexpected touches of creativity. A standout among the appetizers, for example, was deep-fried deviled eggs. Dredged in panko breadcrumbs and sizzled to a golden brown, the over-the-top appetizer added welcome counterpoints of crispness and heat to the classic cold picnic staple.
The review doesn't glow all over, though, suggesting that maybe the Gallatin Road eatery is trying to be too many things to too many people (or at least too many things): "While Steve's abounds in selection, it lacks consistency, leading us to wonder if perhaps a tighter focus could benefit the dining experience," Fox writes. Well, this review is leading me to wonder why I haven't tried such a tastefully named establishment so very close to my home. Maybe I'll head down the street to Dino's and No. 308 afterward.