Savory 'New Southern' at Potlikker

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Southern Foodways Alliance sign in the City House backyard at Potlikker film festival
  • Southern Foodways Alliance sign in the City House backyard at Potlikker film festival

It seemed like half the city's food writers and purveyors braved the lowering skies Sunday for Potlikker, a celebration of Southern food and film and an opportunity to learn a little about the work of the Southern Foodways Alliance. Guests thumbed through the Cornbread Nation cookbook as they swigged Southern-ish drinks like rhubarb lemonade and chocolate milk and iced coffee, spiked with Corsair liquors. John Egerton, dean of Nashville gourmets and editor of Cornbread Nation I, beamed as he socialized. Linus Hall dispensed Yazoo brew in the backyard. (Who even knew City House had a backyard? And it's really nice.)

The ticket announced there would be "snacks," but the food was far beyond snack fare. The only traditional Southern dish was the hot water cornpone and potlikker dished out by David Ewing and Alice Randall at the door. City House revived the spring radish sandwich in a stylish rendition, and offered black pepper-fennel-coriander popcorn for munching at the film screening (which I didn't see).

Peanut butter mini moon pies
  • Peanut butter mini moon pies

Three other offerings especially deserve mention. City House pastry chef Rebekah Turshen concocted peanut butter mini moon pies that were tidbits of perfection. Two soft peanut butter cookies held a marshmallow filling and a layer of firm chocolate. Two bites of heaven.

City House's pork meatballs in a rhubarb-horseradish-grainy mustard glaze were stupendously good. And Martin's barbecue was there with that fried-smoked chicken with Alabama white barbecue sauce brought together the best of fried chicken and the best of barbecue.

All undeniably Southern, but not like grandma made.

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