Drifters Visit Heats Debate on the Geometry of Nachos

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This week's dining review features Drifters, the latest installment in restaurateur Matt Charette's east side eating empire. Our experience with Drifters' slow-cooked meats was a little uneven -- we had an excellent Saturday evening supper, balanced by a lackluster late-afternoon lunch. None the less, we concluded that the overall food quality coupled with the easygoing atmosphere and festive patio seating will make Drifters a happy Five Points landmark for beer and ribs.

One item on the menu piqued a curious conversation among our tasters: barbecue nachos. At first glance, Drifters' nachos appeared to be a bountiful pile of tortilla chips with chicken, cheese, et al. But the pyramidal presentation overlooked one of the fundamentals of nachos: The taller the pile, the more naked chips you get. In fact, our tasters each got about one loaded nacho before we ran out of toppings and were left with a lifeless leaf pile.

So, a word to nacho-makers everywhere: It's not the height of your tower, it's the toppings that have the power. Go low, nacho.

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