Drifters Visit Heats Debate on the Geometry of Nachos



This week's dining review features Drifters, the latest installment in restaurateur Matt Charette's east side eating empire. Our experience with Drifters' slow-cooked meats was a little uneven -- we had an excellent Saturday evening supper, balanced by a lackluster late-afternoon lunch. None the less, we concluded that the overall food quality coupled with the easygoing atmosphere and festive patio seating will make Drifters a happy Five Points landmark for beer and ribs.

One item on the menu piqued a curious conversation among our tasters: barbecue nachos. At first glance, Drifters' nachos appeared to be a bountiful pile of tortilla chips with chicken, cheese, et al. But the pyramidal presentation overlooked one of the fundamentals of nachos: The taller the pile, the more naked chips you get. In fact, our tasters each got about one loaded nacho before we ran out of toppings and were left with a lifeless leaf pile.

So, a word to nacho-makers everywhere: It's not the height of your tower, it's the toppings that have the power. Go low, nacho.

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