Best Place to Chart Downtown's Growth

Mad Platter

When Marcia and Craig Jervis debuted the dining room at the corner of Sixth and Monroe in 1980, the then-affordable area of Germantown had deteriorated from a prosperous suburb where church services were conducted in German to a district of boarding houses, flophouses and absentee landlords. Armed with a stack of recipes and a big idea, the Jarvises launched the restaurant the same year as the first Oktoberfest. Decades ahead of their time, they grew their own herbs, developed a chef-driven culinary personality and attracted a cult-like cadre of devoted employees. Diners rely on the menu of proven favorites plus daily specials in the cozy brick-walled dining room. When you go, try to remember that the house was built when indoor plumbing was a crazy dream in the future. Nicki P. Wood

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