The Road, Episode 25: Sushi O Sushi [Eating Our Way Down Nolensville Pike]

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Make like Steve Winwood and roll with it.
  • Make like Steve Winwood and roll with it.
Welcome to The Road, my column in which I'm going to attempt — key word: attempt — to eat at every non-chain restaurant on Nolensville Pike between I-440 and the county line. I'll readily admit that even though I live right off Nolensville — Paragon Mills represent! — and revel in the diversity and quantity of its eateries, I have barely scratched the surface of what the strip has to offer. But now I'm going to rectify that, and hopefully you'll join for what's likely to be a wild ride.

Episode: 25: Sushi O Sushi
Address: 6023 Nolensville Pike
Phone: 615-331-7655

OK, let's take and revel in the fact that the last four digits of Sushi O Sushi's phone number spell the word "roll" — that's just awesome. As you may have picked up over the course of this column I am a sucker for novel details and this is about as novel as they get. So novel that I almost called them for no reason — I hate using the phone! But I was already armed with a recommendation from a sushi-fanatic friend and had spent the better part of the week watching old episodes of Ultraman on Hulu, so I skipped the phone-formalities and headed down The Road with a kaiju-sized appetite. And I would say that Sushi O Sushi successfully vanquished that monster.

I hadn't given any real thought to the food choices on the far end of The Road — I never have a reason to go to actual Nolensville, and my natural inclination as an avowed urbanist is to head toward the city instead of away from it. And everything down that way looks so new and not-at-all-scrappy — which is weird and foreign to me and my subterranean-bootstrapping tastes — that I just haven't made the effort to explore the food south of Harding Pike. Maybe this was a mistake? Are all the restaurants down that way as good as Sushi O Sushi? Have I just been ignoring them because they're not held together by duct tape and old grease? I suppose we'll find out.

Also, I should probably declare right here, right now, that I am not a sushi expert — I've only been eating seafood for a few years and I'm not entirely learned in the subtleties of ocean-bred proteins. And before you ask, yes, I watch a lot of tokusatsu but I wouldn't consider myself otaku. I'm just a nerd with a taste for gloabal weirdness and foam-rubber costumes. That said, I really enjoyed Sushi O Sushi — it's a comfortable spot, low-key and calm, with an impressive array of options and fast, friendly service.

Even if I hadn't enjoyed my food — which I did, mind you — the entire trip to the ass-end of the county would be worth just to see the delight on my wife's face when they brought her miso with mushrooms. Those are probably her two favorite food stuffs on earth, and to have them together in one bowl made her ecstatic. (Side note: Next time I'm in the doghouse I'm heading straight to Sushi O Sushi for a takeout bucket of miso.)

We split an order of agedashi tofu, which was supple and tasty, lightly fried and topped with dried fish flakes and soaked in soy-broth. I think that's what it is — I'll admit that my knowledge of Japanese cooking techniques is not quite as deep as my knowledge of of Mechagodzilla's filmography.

The sushi selection is vast — they brag about having 76 different rolls — and frankly, a little intimidating. I'm a dude who doesn't usually enjoy complicated, Americanized sushi — why the fuck would you deep-fry sushi, doesn't that defeat the point? — and I'm generally averse to sprawling, complicated menus, but it was tough to resist the pull of the more esoteric options. Or rather, it was easier to entertain the idea of an esoteric option — the "No Name Roll" (tempura sweet potatoes and topped with seared tuna) is about as nouveau as I'm going to get. The "Happy Roll" — with yellowtail, avocado and tuna — was more my speed, with a consitnency of temperatures across the various layers that I find much more enjoyable.

Overall, the fish was fresh, the service friendly and the prices reasonable, combine that with a relaxed and casual atmosphere and enough options to cover just about every diner's particular tastes and I think I might have found my new go-to sushi place. All right, it's agedashi tofu that has me sold on this joint and has me thinking that I need to head back and check out some more of the non-sushi options.

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