by Nicki Wood
Tucked in among the extensive offerings on Cantina Laredo's menu is a ceviche unlike others: it adds capers and olives to the mixture of fish, shrimp and scallops. Their flavor adds some pucker power and turns it into a fresh-tasting, uncooked extension of the Snapper Veracruz dish so beloved in our house. I adored it.
Former Bites blogger Lee Stabert and Bites Mistress Carrington Fox prefer their ceviche simple: fish, lime juice, salt. They might prefer the ceviche from Tapatio 2, our discovery on Nolensville Road. Or they might reject it for including the fabricated k-r-a-b, those stix made from flavored whitefish. On the other hand, the krab has been lovingly pulled into shreds and marinated for a better flavor, then piled into a teetering haystack along with chopped fish. Throw in avocado, lime and cilantro -- and the $6 price tag -- and you could be eating at a beach hut in Cabo.
The sophistications of Cantina Laredo's ceviche, or the sea legs of Tapatio 2? Cantina Laredo wins the round.